FINAL ROUTE MAPS PUBLISHED

I've now finally loaded on the final tacks of the route I cycled, this is about as definative as it gets! Check the link http://dontdtoptillorkney2.blogspot.com/

Also SATMAP has published my story on their website http://www.satmap.com/news.php?art_id=34

My BBC Radio interview with Coventry & Warwickshire

Me chatting to Mark Powlett of BBC Coventry & Warkwickshire on 10th June.

And the money keeps rolling in.....

Thanks to the wonderful generosity of even more people the total is now close to £2,700 - Brilliant news.

I will be making an 'appearance' on BBC Coventry & Warwickshire on Wednesday 10th at 3:30, but if you miss it you can catch it on the BBC i-player for a week at http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p0039n0b/Mark_Powlett_10_06_2009/

Final Blog Entry - The Orkneys

Well I think I will make this my last Blog entry for my Don't Stop 'till Orkney trip. Had a blissful nights sleep in the Stromness Hotel, with a breakfast of freshly killed Hagis and egg.

My ferry was not until 11am so I had the chance to explore the Stromness Museum. Orcadians are very well travelled, one Dr Rae had donated the violin he'd taken to explore the Arctic! Also found the best bakery in Britain and came away with Orkney crab rolls for the long journey to Inverness.

At the Ferry a caravan had got stuck inside the ship with a broke axle. Chated with Malcolm (?) the security guard.

Ferry eventually left 20 mins late, not good for a 30 minute connection in Thurso.

Passing out of Scapa Flow we skirted the 1000 ft cliffs on Hoy and the sandstone stack of the Old Man of Hoy came into view. Enjoyed crab rolls!

On arrival at Scrabster I was first off, I'd set a route on the GPS which was 2.6 miles to get to Thurso Station - 20 mins, was it enough against the headwind? Within a mile the taxis moving the other passengers to the train had gone passed. With a lot of hard pedalling and trusting the GPS I arrived on the platform at the same time as the train.

Dozed and grazed to Inverness passing Carbisdale Castle and Dingwall which I had cycled through. Inverness was basking in late afternoon sunshine so I booked my luggage into Left Luggage and found a bar by the River Ness to chill out in.

Sleeper home is very comfortable with a club car set up like a small cafe serving whisky and cheese. Chatted to Gillian, a geologist who confirmed the rocks I found in Devon were the same as those on Hoy, 900 miles apart.

Don't want to get too philosophical about my little cycle, it has been a pleasure pedalling and a privilage being a conduit for so many people to donate to 2 worthy causes. If you have been one of the 50+ who have enjoyed following my progress then I am delighted, if you have not already donated then I invite you to click on the Just Giving link.

For everyone who has added comments - many thanks, your support was a real morale booster. For everyone who donated thank you so much, you are the real heros.

Off for a quiet couple of weeks.

Richard

I didn't stop 'till Orkney!

Rod was walking from Land's End to John o'Groats in stages and Charles was the stand-in Warden at the John o'Groats YH.

Both were up and about at 7.15a.m. when I was ready to set off. My decision to stop at the YH last night and not push on against the wind to Duncansby Head and JOG was a good one, it saved me 6 miles of 'doubling-back' and the wind had abated a bit overnight, but it meant that I had to hit several targets to ensure I was at JOG in time for the 09:00 ferry to the Orkneys.

Missed first target of leaving YH at 07:00. Being in a dorm of 3 snorers (excluding me) I can recommend ear-plugs, only drawback is that I slept through my 6a.m alarm! Very satifying leaving remains of food behind for a JOG-LE bod to utilise, I decided to throw away the remainder of the museli as I was never convinced that my Cape Wrath 'ghost' mouse hadn't been nibbling at it.

Second target was to reach Duncansby Head by 7:45, a 4 mile cycle (Kineton to Whatcote). Despite the head-wind I pedalled up the last hill to the lighthouse pretty much on target and possed for the obligitory 'evidence' photo. Resisted temptation to wake up 3 camper vans parked nearby.

Next target was to get my LE-JOG papers stamped and to sign the End-to-End book. The JOG hotel (historic custodian) had closed but I was reliably informed that the Seaview Hotel was the new custodian. . . They stamped my forms but did not have the 'official' book - Um. Time now 08:10 and I had plenty more jobs to do. Next was to buy Ferry ticket, £18 for a 45 minute crossing on a boat that the Viking would have felt at home in! Anyway, ferry lady made a few calls and we discovered that there are no less than 4 End-to-End books. The 'Official' one was in the Gift Shop, so off I pedalled and eventually left my mark in the 'Official' journal.

Still had to find the Finish Line, which was amid the Heras fencing around the defunct JOG Hotel. Job done. The 'Official' mileage of 874 was more than 300 less than I had clocked up.

The ferry seemed to be full of English couples of a 'certain age' partaking in the 1 day Orkney mega tour. I did find Simon who had cycled LE-JOG in 8 days with little luggage except a track-pump! Transpired he had 3 punctures within 20 miles of JOG and the track pump was a purchase in Wick.

Arriving at Burwick on South Ronaldsway (as in the Shipping Forecast) I was greeted with a following wind, a cloudless sky, and no hills only gentle inclines. These, together with turquoise sea and white beaches made the 20 miles to Kirkwall chatting to Simon exceedingly easy.

Each time I stopped to read about Churchill's Barriers connecting islands and built in the 1940's by Italian POWs to protect the Home Fleet from U-boat attack (Google Scapa Flow for more info) I met Penny who was at last night's YH. The small Italian Chapel also built by the POW was a very poinient memorial to all the turmoil these islands had seen.

Couldn't resist the Distillery Visitor Centre in Kirkwall and Holly plied me a couple of excellent wee-drams. Stopped for obligatory snap at the harbour in Kirkwall, orkney's capital.

The Orkneys are famous for their ancient monuments, so I had to venture to the Ring of Brodgar. I think it is made of the same Old Red Sandstone that I first encountered in Devon and then in Ross-on-Wye and Carlisle and Dunnet Head.

I couldn't sort out accommodation on Hoy so coasted into Stromness to buy a ferry ticket back to Scotland (Orkney's aren't Scotland- apparently). Little old Nora was waiting for her bus but willingly thrust £5 into my hand when I told her I'd cycled 1,300 miles to raise money for orphans and dispossed people in Africa - The Kindness of Strangers.

Checked into the Stromness Hotel and dozed off in the bath until my sunburned leg slipped under the water- Ouch.

So thats about it, tomorrow I get a ferry and 2 trains homeward, I'll use the time to jot down my thoughts and highlights, in the meantime off for a steak at the Ferry Inn.

Stats for the day 51 miles, 3789 ft,5:34 hours, max speed 31.6 mph, average 10.7mph.

I'm in Orkney now, can I stop?

STOP PRESS.. MADE IT TO JOHN O'GROATS- MORE LATER

My GPS says I cycled over 1200 miles!

GPSed Track "Tongue to John OGroats"

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Will I get to John o'Groats?

A completely blissful night's sleep with the most spectacular view over the Kyle of Tongue when the alarm went off at 6:30. Not a cloud in the sky when I left Hanna at the YH and started pedalling at 8am, but cold.

I knew that there were plenty of hills on the way to John o'Groats, but after the forth 400 ft climb (1.5 Edgehills) the novelty wore off. The surf at Bettyhill was up and I saw at least 3 wetsuited dudes heading into the water.

All morning the hills were reducing in height whilst the wind was building. The wind was more debillitating than the hills, at least with the hills there was a summit, but the wind was always there. I reckon it knocks a gear of my cycling, possibly two.
Brought a delicious chicken pie in Reay, resisted temptation to visit nuclear plant at Dounreay!
MORE HILLS AND MORE HEADWIND, did get first proper view of the Orkneys.

Thurso's Co-Op provided last chance to stock up before heading further east.

Dunnet Head (Britain's most northerly point) was bathed in afternoon sunshine. Felt exceedingly satisfied to have cycled south to north of Britain. Managed to get a photo taken at Dunnet Head by Eileen and Isobell but decided that JOG was too ambitious today.

MORE HILLS AND MORE HEADWIND-not fun. Stopped at JOG YH tonight sharing dorm with Ron- walking LE-JOG in stages. Got formal certificate to confirm I had achiven LE-JOG from YHA warden.Stats 69.2 miles, climbed 5016 ft, average speed 8.4mph, cycling time 8:14 - long day. Max speed 32.3 mph- WEE.

GPSed Track "Tongue to John OGroats"

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The sun does shine in Scotland

With Cape Wrath behind me I turned east, Tongue was the target today. Only 30 miles but after such an early and cold start it was a challenge. Stopped for egg and beanz at a 1950's cafe - not retro, just not been touched since then. Also charged phone as solar charger is broken (hence no live-logging today).

Smoo caves are on an inlet just outside Durness, rather impressive. As I climbed back to the road my old friend Gareth drove past in his Google Street View car. I'll have to see if I can find myself.

Couldn't resist paddling at Traigh Allt Chailgeag beach, had if all to myself. It was FREEZING!

Loch Eriboll is a 6 mile inlet which has to be cycled twice, on the road almost every vehicle was a camper van or motorbike - much easier to get up the hills. I am sure there are better places for lunch, just can't think of any.

It set me up for the 700ft climb, the last one over 500 ft and a gentle freewheel down and across the causeway into Tongue. Hannah the warden's home made cakes were wonderful. The hostel was also hosting a party of George Watsons College in Edinburgh (Chris Hoy's old school). A better advert for young people would be hard to find, they cook, wash up, enjoy themselves, and ply strangers with wine.

Long day tomorrow and as I have a room to myself I will sleep well.Stats 52.5 miles 5,741 feet climbed, max speed 27.5 mph.Overall to date 1192 miles 94998 feet

Sunday - PART II The Cape Wrath Saga

As I left it is was looking very doubtful if I would get to Cape Wrath, with my broken chain, no ferrys running and the RAF bombing the road to Cape Wrath.

So I eventually reached the Kyle of Durness after 5pm, as I cycled down a long-descent I could clearly make out a boat crossing towards my bank, I frantically pedalled out to the jetty and found John (the Ferryman) just finishing his last trip. In a shouted conversation over the noise of his out-board motor it was clear that bombing would start by 11am, so if I wanted to get to Cape Wrath I'd have to go now.

En route across John plied me with a very palatable red wine, if you excuse the salty taste on the glass. It also transpired that halfway to the lighthouse was a bothy- a basic building to shelter in.

I took my chances, and the last drop of wine and agreed to meet John back at the jetty by 11am Monday. All I had to do was find and survive the 'haunted' bothy for one night.

The road was steep (two arrows on the map) and in a terrible state of repair, I barely made 5 mph up the long unrelenting climbs, with only the Red Deer keeping me company. The bothy turn-off lead to a steep and un-cyclable descent to an idylic sheltered beach. The Bothy was an old crofting hut but water-tight and had two camp-beds -some candles and a fire place.

My first job was to scour the beach for driftwood - very Robinson Crusoe- I even hummed the theme tune! Fire lit I decided that with failing light and no saucepans that cooking pasta was too ambitious so set about eating anything I'd brought with me,Chicken chunks, bacon I pre-cooked, peppers, choclate bars, last bit of John's wine which I'd decanted into waterbottle.

Suitable fortified I donned as many clothes layers as possible (at least 4 on all parts, including neoprene over-shoes and a duvet from my towel, and settled down to sleep.
By 12:30 the fire was out, pulled head-scaff into balaclava, 3am my water bottle fell over, was it the ghost? No, I turned on my headtorch to see a large mouse on my pannier(!). 4:30am and it was too cold to sleep, it was also getting light. Gave up notion of sleeping and packed up. Breakfasted on dry museli, energy drink and chocolate.

Track was too steep and rough to push laden bike up so I portaged panniers seperately.

The 4 miles to Cape Wrath crossed open moorland with small herds ot deer running free. By 6:10 I was at the lighthouse and with the last juice in my phone I got the picture of me at Britain's most remote extremity.

The two hours to retrace my steps was not long enough to meet John bringing the sentries over, so I had a 90 minute wait.-Cleaned bike, repacked panniers and watched as numerous Typhoon jets unleashed live bombs on Grunyard Island - loud blasts followed by clouds of smoke. All this and it wasn't even 9am!Rest of Monday on seperate blog.

GPSed Track "Tongue to John OGroats"

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You are the weakest link.. Goodbye.

Leaving Carbisdale Castle I negotiated the footbridge and headed off past the very uninspirins Falls of Shin to cycle some 10 miles along Loch Shin. I think it had been dammed so it was more of a reservoir, but eqaully stunning in the sunshine. For a while I cycled with another End to Ender, Tim who had shared a dorm with me the night before.

There was a gentle head-wind and that together with a slow climb tempted me to stop for an 'unnecessary but enjoyable' coffee and chocolate crunchy thing. I chatted to Jan and Helen about my trip so far and plans to get to Cape Wrath.

For Jan the penny dropped and she got the local paper to check the start date for a big 'live firing' excercise. Despite me checking the Cape Wrath Range web site which said it was open to the public in May the paper said it would close for 2 weeks tomorrow. AGHH!

Being a resourceful chap I had the number of the Range Warden who confirmed that from 11am Monday the RAF Typhoons would be dropping real bombs on Garve Island, not a good place to cycle past! The Warden said if I cycled fast I'd propably get between the sentries but he couldn't guarntee that.

This was not good news, I didn't really want to miss out Cape Wrath so called John the Ferryman to hear that his first ferry would not be until 11am, significantly reducing my odds of reaching Cape Wrath (ferry is ONLY way to get to 11 mile road to lighthouse.

I'l cycled 25 miles, it was 37 to the ferry and 12 o'clock. If I cycled like crazy I might get to cycle one way and get the minibus back- worth a go. So off I pedalled, past Loch Shin and Loch Merkland and over a saddle down to Loch More. Just as I was marvelling at the beauty and remoteness my pedals went spinning as my chain broke and came to rest on the tarmac behind me.

What a good job l'd brought a spare link and chain tool with me,.all I needed to do was read the instructions. 45 minute, and a lot of greasy fingers the new link clicked into place and I could restart my increasingly hopeless race to the last Ferry.The far north-west coast of Scotland was truely breath - taking, but keep your mouth closed to avoid swallowing a fly or a bee!

A s I descended to the Kyle of Durness I could make out a small boat. Would I make the ferry, could I cycle both ways to Cape Wrath, would I get bombed by the RAF.. I'll tell you later today:.Stats 70.9 miles, climbed 4,980 ft

GPSed Track "Carbisdale to Durness"

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Saturday Blog.

With a compartively easy distance today (38 miles) I completely unpacked my panniers, posing for a photo outside the hostel.

Left Inverness behind and crossed the Morray Firth on the Kessok bridge onto The Black Isle - not sure why 'black'. The sun shone and I was making good, but not spectacular progress. I decided to avoid the A9 for as long as possible so joined National Cycle Path 1 as it ran on a purpose built cyclepath, adding 6 miles to my day's target.

I resisted visiting the Black Island Brewery - I had been before. As I free-wheeled across the island by back axle was making grinding noises again. Nothing for it but to divert to Dingwall where the shop stripped it and re-greased it, seemed to do the trick. This added another 7 miles to the day

National Cycle Path 1 meandered along minor roads and into Sutherland, followed by a 750ft climb: (2.5 .Edgehills) at which point the sky grew dark and I donned waterproofs again. The views to Skibou Castle and Dornoch were impressive.

Had another 2 mile divertion via Bonner Bridge to get milk and museli. Eventually approached the Youth Hostel into a headwind after carrying bike and panniers up the 3 flights of steps to get onto the footbridge that was recently (2000) added to a spectaclular railway bridge - I do wonder how people crossed here for the previous 100 years.

Carbisdale Castle YH was owned by a founder of the Scottish YH Association and he left it to be a YH. It is a real Scottish stately home complete with marble statues, paintings, dodgy plumbing and bedrooms up 8 flights of stairs and through several passages - but the view made it all worthwhile.

It was full of active Scottish types who had been out bagging Munros (keep up these are the 238 hills more than 3,000 feet). A good crowd but with so large a place it was not as laid back as smaller hostels, lots of huddles around maps discussing the ascents for tomorrow.

Stats for the day, distance a respectable 54.8 miles, climbed 4,491 ft in 5:30 hours with a top speed of 28.4 mph and average of 9.7 mph (slowest and shortest full day).

GPSed Track "Inverness to Carbisdale"

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Sight seeing in Inverness

The Inverness Youth Hostel is very plush, I cycled around the town (or is it a city?) taking in the multitude of sites.

Of great interest was the organic Haggis farm where the farmer not only breeds his own hagii but also takes in hagii from people who see them for sale on holiday but then can't keep them. A couple of neglected haggi had just arrived when I visited, the keeper was hand feeding one with mashed 'neeps and tatties' whilst all the second haggis could keep down was a shot of single malt with milk in a feeding bottle. It slowly sipped on the reviving liquor and started to move around its cage.

I resisted the temptation to visit the Nessie Nursery, where they have been running a low-profile breeding programme to ensure that there are grainy photos of sea-creatures for years to come! However I got an interesting image on my GPS tracker.

I must confess that the whisky distillery was excellent and gave me a real insight into Highland life.

Right knee and shin still aching - more iburrofen.

Thanks for all the comments so far, they are a real morale booster, sorry I have not replied to everyone. Fantastic news that we've hit the £2,000 mark - many thanks to everyone.

Earlyish night as I have to cover 67 miles tomorrow.

Nessie Hunting...

A late start this morning, got up at 6:30 a.m and read yesterday's paper. The raging torrent outside had subsided and I even got a glimpse of Ben Nevis between the clouds.

After collecting my drying from an exceedingly smelly drying room, I again tumbled my trainers to get them bone dry and warm. I braved not putting on waterproofs - which lasted 3 miles to the start of the Caledonian Canal!

The wind was still really strong from the SW, there were warning signs up advising that ferry services were cancelled - good job I'm on dry land today and cycling NE.The canal path, the "Great Glen Way" was superb and I made good progress.

Along the lochs (no canal) the path followed forest tracks, old rail lines and for 3 miles a "red grade" mountain bike trail - soft mud, steet inclines, tree roots - not fun with panniers on. At one point the track crosses an old rail bridge, they had thoughtfully put some anti-skid mattins across most of its width, I strayed and skidded ending up standing with my bike hoizontal - first fall in 1,000 miles.

Reached Fort Augustus - it was not. Only redeeming features were Helen and Megan, the best looking End-to-Enders I've met to date. They were heading into the wind that was propelling me along at 15mph. I wished them luck, it was their day off so they were heading back to their hostel to read my blog - Hi ladies!

I had read horror stories about the A82 along Loch Ness but the alternative was a 600ft climb or more off road trails. Megan had been hit by a car and within 2 miles of joining the road I come across the Police sorting out a head-on. Decided that riding 4ft from the verge would deter cars trying to squeeze past and force them to properly overtake. Seemed to work, much of the traffic was Nessy related coaches, sure I kept overtaking one German coach as it stopped at every vantage point to see the 'Wee Beasty'.

Last 4 miles into Inverness was back on the Caledonian Canal (with its friendly Lock Keeper) cutting down to enter Inverness across some spectacular Victorian suspension bridges.

For the last 40 miles my back brake has lost grip, I tried tightening the cable and the offset of one pad to no avail. Decided that new pads would solve the problem - it did. The last set lasted 900 miles.Decided that tomorrow will be a non-cycling day, I'd always planned one free day, so I'll take in the sights of Inverness on Friday - shouldn't take long! It will also give my right knee and shin a rest.Thursday StatsFort William to Inverness.

Distance 68.9 miles, climbed 4064 feet, heavy rain in morning, surprisingly sunny in the afternoon.Wednesday StatsTobermoray to Fort William. Distance 70.2 miles 4,786 ft climbed.Tuesday Stats Lochranza to Tobermoray, distance 82.4 5,285 ft climbed Total to date 1,013mile, 79,776 ft (265 Edge Hills!) I'm off to bed..

GPSed Track "fort william to inverness"

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Wednesday, Mull to Fort William via Ardnamurchan Point

It rained again today, all day, very heavilly. Am I disheartened? No, but VERY WET.

At 5 a.m. I woke up and decided that I could profitably use the two hours until the ferry went sorting out my panniers and tumble drying my shoes - dry feet in the morning are SO under-rated!It was a truly beautiful morning in Tobermoray, the calm harbour and painted house fronts way idylic. If I knew any of the Balamoray characters I'd make some smug comment about seeing them out on an early morning power walk or performing Tai-Chi on the harbour wall.


As the ferry crossed the Sound of Mull (available in all good record shops) I saw another ferry heading for the outer islands.



Donald skillfully piloted my exclusive mini-cruise ship to Kilochan where a collection of secondary school pupils were waiting to travel to Tobermoray..
On reaching the mainland again I turned left heading for Ardnamurchan Point - Britains most westerly mainland point. The highly recommended tea-room was closed (it was only 9 a.m.) and as it was just starting to rain as I headed out. Got some photos of the lighthouse just to prove I got there.


The single track road heading east skirting the rim of this ancient volcano would have been idylic had it not have rained. It was slow, tedious and laborious, lots more hills. The 2 tearooms en route were well placed and I relished the chance to dry out and put on dry clothes. I gave camera shy Morag in Strontian my Athol Brose (sp?) recipie (oats, whipped cream, honey and whisky) and she added another £5 to the total.The 58 miles to the short ferry crossing a Corran took forever I eventally caught the 5.30 p.m. some 90 minutes later than I'd planned.(It was all those tea stops!). If yesterday's rain was like standing in a shower this was a fire hose, I've never cycled all day in those conditions. Water was pouring off every rock and across every road.



Arrived at Glen Nevis SYHA at 6:30. Not before I rang out my gloves several times.I peformed my 'guy in the laundrette act' by depositing everything I was wearing in the washing machine, had a shower, cooked half a bag of pasta and a tin of salmon and a couple of beers. Would you credit it - the sun's come out! Quick picie of the river (with another in the morning to show how much it has dropped).
Off to bed.

Bye richard

GPSed Track "Tobermoray to Fort William"

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Wednesday morning

On the 7.20 sailing from Tobermoray. Not very busy!

GPSed Track "Arran to Oban"

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It rained a bit today, but did I catch the Mull ferry?

Whats the story, Tobermoray
Vicky's breakfast filled a breakfast sized gap and in no time I was on the ferry looking back on a VERY wet Arran.

In fact the mainland wasn't much drier - like being in a shower the whole day. I had 60 miles to cover to get the 4p.m. ferry from Oban. It was always the trip's weak link, miss the ferry and I'd miss Ardmurchan Point and have ti return all that sponsorship! On a good day it would have been ambitious, but today in the sapping rain it was highky unlikey. Fortunately the howling NW wind was a more steady and had veered SW so as I headed vaguely N it pushed me on a bit. I waved at Gareth and his Google Street View car, perhaps I'll be imortalised on the web.

I measured each hill as a multiple of Edge Hill (100m climb), the rain continued to fall. Passed the Crinnan Canal and climbed 3 Edge Hills to reach the summit of today's trip. Three changes of wet clothes later I made a last stop in a layby 21 miles to go. Rachel and Robbie in their camper van took pity on me and plied me with hot coffee - bliss.

made it into Oban in time for my ferry, I was soaked through and sat and drank my tea and Twix whilst slowly warming up. Only 20 miles on Mull to get to Tobermoray, but into the wind it was exceptionally tough. Not helped by the shop keeper in Salen saying that the last 10 miles to Tobermoray was the toughest, she was right, but as I entered the town the sun came out. Made a huge pile of pasta and put my clothes and shoes in the tumble drier - best £4 spend of the day. Met Rob and Lynne were at the Youth Hostel.

7.20 ferry in the morning and I'm in a room with 3 snorring Frenchman - must remember to get up quietly and collect all my stuff from drying room. Knee and shin both aching will have to get some more ibuprofen in Fort William.Off to bed.

GPSed Track "Arran to Oban"

View my new track "Arran to Oban" started in United Kingdom, Scotland, Tarbert.

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Onwards to Arran, another 'blustery' and wet day

Frances, my host at Newark Farm at Sanquhar was a truly wonderul person. She cooked a mean breakfast at 7:30 and spoke lovingly of her late mother and how she coped with her blindness. The house was just like I remember my grandmother's, plenty of dark furniture and hairbrushes neatly arranged on the fireplace. I made use of the huge shower to wash a few things and watched then steam in front of a superb electric heater.

By 8:00 it was raining again so donned full waterproofs as l headed NW up the lanes. The wind had moved to a westerly but it was still hard going. I need to complete the 50 miles to Ardrossan by 14:45 to catch the ferry. I had planned to avoid the A76 but stayed on it to Cummock as it was easier and less hilly than the allternative.

I was obviously in Rabbie Burns country at his picture appeared on most village signs, I was intreged at the signpost to the Bachelor's Club, but never discovered what it was.

Even with Frances huge breakfast in me I struggled against the ferocious wind stopping for a coffee and photo at Dondonald Castle. Here I met up with Bill who was end to ending on his bike - camping- I didn't envy him. We cycled up the cycle paths to Ardrossan harbour guided by the maps on my GPS. Just as I was extolling its virtues we got to a dead-end - Ooops. The main cycle route followed a meandering river through Irvine, we had plenty of time to make the 3:15p.m. Ferry and it was a better option than the dual-carriageway. As we entered Ardrossan the path followed the sea-weed strewn promonade, testament to the severity of the westerly gale. Reached the ferry and the nearby ASDA, brought food for 2 days. Tomorrow's 60 mile ride to Oban to catch the 4p.m. Ferry will be impossible in this weather so I want to make sure I have all the food I need.

On the ferry's observation deck I could not see the mountains on Arran but when I arrived I recognised that these are the Arran's selling point-.that and the wind.

Cycling up the 700ft pass to Lochranza must qualify as my toughest hill climb ever, it was cycling in a wind tunnel. Walking would have been just as quick but I was cycling end-to-end so I ground up the long hill in my lowest gear. On a few occasions the wind across the road, so I turned my back sideways to try and catch some forwards component- just like a sailing boat's!

EVENTUALLY reached the summit and free-wheeled into Lochranza passed the closed distillery - unfortunately.

Vicki at the B&B (Castle Kirran) was a star and the shower was to die for. Joined some wonderful Scottish cyclists for a meal tonight at a hotel just round the coast. Talking with Alan, Shona and Moira (sisters) it seems to be a pedalling whisky tour, I'm very envious. Returned to B&B to discover a small donation from Gean in the room next door. The view from the B&B was breathtaking - castle and wild deer nibbling the grass - another long and very hard day - oh and its started to rain again.

Stats (excluding ferry!) 66 miles , climbed 5,692 ft on the road 7 hours.

GPSed Track "Sanquhar to Arran"

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Sunday, a Blustery Day!

It must have rained again overnight as Skelton was glistening in the sunlight at 7a.m. With an 80+ mile trip today I needed the early start - complete with Isobel's cooked breakfast - wonderful. Both Isobel and her Collie came to see me off. If you have never heard of Skelton you will certainly have used what it 'produces' - the automatic time signal the drives so many clocks is transmitted from the huge masts there.

The descent to Carlisle was officially 'off road' with some tracks that proved challenging to my mountain bike with road tyres and heavy panniers.

It was a great Sunday morning bash though forests and streams The track into Carlisle had intreging steel mazes to negotiate depending if you were on a bike, on foot, in a wheelchair. There was no provision for bikes with panniers so I resorted to up ending the bike and going through the wheel-chair kissing gate!Managed to negotiate myself though Carlisle and pick up Cycle Route 7 towards the Gretna and the border.

Then it happened! As I crossed the river I was hit by the full force of the NW wind - I had the next 60 miles travelling NW'. This was not fun!I paused at Gretna for the 'official' photo and then headed along the Solway (?) Firth, resistins the temptation to visit the 'Devil's Porrage' museum - a World War 1 munitions factory rather than oats with raw chillies! Wind meant speed was down from 12mph to under 8mph - for an 80 mile day this was disasterous.At this time I met up with Francis who was also travelling most of the way to Sanquar. He had a carbon-fibre touring bike with little luggage and offered to 'break-wind' in front of me. It was the best news I could have hoped for, I was soon bowling along at 12+ mph with Francis doing all the hard work into the wind and me sticking 12 inches off his back wheel.

At Thornhill I gratefully thanked Francis - I would have really struggled by myself. The 'map of Africa' on my CORD T-shirt is actually a ring of salt from my perspiration! From Thornhill to Newark Farm I followed the minor road past Drumlandrig Castle - I didn't have time to visit it's cycling museum!

The Nithsdale Valley was breathtaking in the afternoon sunshine and Frances at Newark Farm drove me into town for a meal at the restraunt - come - farmers supply store. Sanquar may be small but it has the world's oldest Post Office.A long but rewarding day. ..

Are we nearly there yet?

No, but I'm in Scotland and with 667 miles on the clock I'm half way there. The wind has now moved and it is in my face - hard work but pleased to get this far! More later. . .

GPSed Track "Skelton to Sanquar"

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Saturday, over the top.

Shared the Slaidburn YHA dorm with Ken and John who had stayed in the leaking hostel at St Just the night after me.

In the sunshine the Trough of Bowland was truly stuning.

As I rounded a bend the 1,300 ft summit called 'The Cross of Greet' came into view (my highest point)- it was comparable to the climb at Cheddar gorge.

Paused at the summit for a photo before stating my desent, caught up by a local who pointed out the 3 Peaks- paused for a pickie in front of Ingleborough before entering the heaving metropolis that is High Bentham - two big local news stories this week, somebody has some money and the Bentham Earthquake

.

Took the scenic route on a Roman Road avoiding Kirby Lonsdale and noticed a strange grinding noise from back wheel- not good so phoned ahead to Arragons Cycle Shop in Penrith 25 miles away which closed at 5pm time now 1pm.

Managed to navigate myself through Low Gill (via a Bridleway with steps onto a bridge) and headed over to the A6 to make sure I got the bike shop in good time.

Dropped into Penrith to discover the U.K's most efficient cycle repair shop! Phil diagnosed the grinding as being worn cones (part of rear bearing) and whilst I drank coke he did his sfuff. Can't speak too highly of Arragons they were superb - even gave me directions towards Skelton.

Great little B&B and a curry at the nearby Dog and Gun. Got to bed to soothe sunbuned arms!

Stats 64.3 miles. Climbed 6,532ft, avg speed 9.8 mph, max speed 33.6 mph, cycled for 6:43. Cumulative 632 miles, 52000 feet.

I should have visited the Salt Museum...

Started off with the freshest of scrambled eggs, they were still warm from the chickens - truly delicious. Peter and Julie are wonderful hosts, and their dogs are great.I set off in glorious sunshine but on my left was an onimous band of dark cloud which was converging with me.

I resisted the temptation to visit the world famous Cheshire Salt Museum in one off the multitude off towns beginning with a 'W' and ending 'ford' or 'wich'.

Cycles are exempt the 12p toll to cross the Manchester Ship Canal, but it did give me my only view of the city.Rex and his owner Helen came to say hello above Blackburn - Rex thought I was a horse! Neil, another wet cyclist, kept pace with me for a few miles as we climbed out of Bolton (I think). It was all a bit of a grind today- hard work - dull towns in the rain.Today was always going to be a 'working' day where I had to get the miles in rather than enjoying the scenery. I pedalled over the M65, a road I designed back in the 1980's- pleased to see it eventually finished. Blackburn was as I remember it - only more tatty.

In the words of The Beatles 'I heard the news today, Oh boy, 10,000 holes in Blackburn Lancashire'.Slight route planning error when I ended up above the road I wanted - it was not an junction! Found a track that got me back onto the road. Oops. Should have planned that better.By now it was 6p.m. and the rain had stopped, as I climbed the 1,000 ft into the 'Trough of Bowland' the sun shone - but the hills were still very long and steep. Finally reached Slaidburn Hostel with the next door pub to quench my thist! Definitely in the 'north' now'!

Time for bed.Stats 79.9 miles, c;imbed 5343 ft, max speed 36.3 mph avg speed 11.2 mph, duration 7:09

GPSed Track "Slaidburn to Skelton"

View my new track "Slaidburn to Skelton" started in United Kingdom, England, Blackburn.

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GPSed Track "Acton to Slaidburn"

View my new track "Acton to Slaidburn" started in United Kingdom, England, Nantwich.

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Shropshire and into Cheshire - near dog experience..

Before leaving Leominster in the rain I said my farewells to the lovely Debbie (YHA Manager) and 'Land's End 30 miles a day' Chris, although I'll probably see him at John O'Groats! (Chris was later seen at Fort William - well done mate!)

I always knew that an Englishman's home is his castle but I had no idea I had my very own castle and village. I do wonder if the omission of the apostrophie is significant?

One of the redeeming features of this morning's rain (O.K. Only redeeming feature), was the constant tailwind. I felt sorry for Yaniv cycling 100 miles a day south from Edinburgh - he'd been knocked off his bike yesterday and the offernding driver had brought him to the YHA.

Passed Ludlow and brought a paper. By the time I'd reached Wenlock Edge for an early lunch the rain started to subside and it had stopped when I re-crossed the River Severn near The Wrekin hill.

I soon encountered my first real 'Near Dog Experience' as I came around a corner the pooch was right in my path on a wet muddy road - lived to tell the tale- dog is also fine as I missed it.

So good to beat the black clouds to Peter and Julie's house just in time or a meal. Their guide dog puppy Arthur still lets off some hideous odours.

Good to be in a bed again.-

For those of you who want to vote on my route Options - dream on - it is hard enough doing the planned route let alone looking at options. As I have planned to avoid A roads I spend a lot of time on very minor roads and I have been 'off-road' almost every day. The GPS (Satmap) is totally invaluable and my Trek mountain bike with road tyres is a good compromise - you couldn't do this route on a road bike. If anyone does want to cycle with me for a bit then use the maps to workout where I'll be, I generally leave by 8.30 at an average speed (includng stops of 9mph)

Stats. Distance 76.1 miles, max 32.6 mph. .Moving time 6:13 mps. With a total of 4655 feet climbed

GPSed Track "Leominster to Acton"

View my new track "Leominster to Acton" started in United Kingdom, England, Hereford.

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Up the Wye Valley

Wonderful night's sleep and porrage with syrup for brekie. As my emergency MP3 player did not arrive in yesterday's post I decided to hang on for it otherwise I could see it following me north but never catching me. Adele makes wonderful packed lunches.

The towers of the old Severn Bridge had been visible since yesterday, but close up it was huge. I met Steve Rogers who keep it in perfect nick and standing in the middle span I could feel it shake with every car and lorry.

Eventually I found a Welcome To Wales sign near Chepstow and headed off on the Welsh side of the Wye.

Passed Tintern Abbey and onto an old rail line to Symond's Yat,- passing a much smaller but equally bouncy suspension bridge

Steve (a local cyclist) gave me some sound advice about roads round Hereford and I set off passing the old covered market in Ross-on-Wye.

Quick photo stop in Hereford Cathedral, I resisted the temptation to visit the Mappa Mundi (old map, not an Indian restraunt).

As I climbed the last big hill I saw the back of the Malvern Hills, I can see the front of them from home, so I reckon this is as close to home as I get.

Leominster is preparing for its May fayre so the town was full of rides.

At the YHA I was welcomed by Chris who I had met last week at Land's End. As he was doing 30 miles a day I couldn't work out the tortoise had beaten the hare here. He confessed that he'd got a lift to Cheddar - it had taken me 3 days to cycle this!

More cycling tomorrow. . Stats for the day, 67.4 miles,climbed 5,068 feet, cycled for 5:46 hours,max speed 37.4 mph (weeeee...) average speed 11.7 mph - told you it was a good day. Weather perfect, SW good wind, dry and SUNNY. .

GPSed Track "Alveston to Leominster"

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Extra Day 6 pickies - can you see Rough and Tumble

Its is a VERY long way down...

Day 6 - The Moore I see you....

Hearty breckie at the Admiral's Rest and headed onto The Somerset Levels - and they were. Glastonbury Tor was just visible as I headed into Cheddar, as was my mast from my 'old job'.

Couldn't go to Cheddar without getting a local cheddar and English tomato granary roll from Highnam's Dairy (highly recommended). Elma Floyd, respendent in mop cap was a real star and also donated £5 to the cause - 'The Kindness of Strangers.....'

With roll packed in the luggage it was sufficient incentive to climb the 900+ feet up/through Cheddar Gorge before stopping at the very top. Although long it wasn't as steep as I'd feared and anyway after 6 days 'I do hills'.

It was a classic lunch in a classic location - mendip limestone wall, stile to sit on, electric fence behind me.

Still no 'Welcome to Somerset' sign but my right foot is on Somerset tarmac and my left in Avon or Unitary Authority of Bristol or Bristol City or something equally bland.

I couldn't resist re-routing my journey across Clifton Bridge. I have never seen so many inept 'toll money throwers' in my life, whilst I was there no less than 10 drivers (25%) either missed or had to reverse as they didn't have 50p. Aparently before the barriers were installed it was two different prices, more if you wanted a ticket - looks like this fiddle has been around as long as Brunel.

Delighted to struggle up my last hill and get to Pete and Adele Moore's and the most wonderful fish mornay prepared 'without the use of a safety net' or was that a recipie by Tim. Washing in the machine, bike cleaned and oiled, Guinea Pigs happy, out the bath and cold beer in hand. Life is good.

Statsfor the day, Mileage 57.6, average speed 9.9mph, max speed 30mph, climbed 4573 feet.

GPSed Track "Bridgewater to Alveston"

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Slept well until the rain woke me up at 5a.m. It was still raining at 7a.m., only harder - if I stay at a hostel on the edge of Dartmoor I shouldn't be too surprised. I also need to confess I stole some Rice Krispies - they were in a ice-cream tub with a girl's name on it near the 'spare food' pile. It was only when the Warden said a lady was booked in for 4 nights that the penny dropped - if you are the Warden (or the lady with only 3 breakfasts) reading this, SORRY.

Having brought 20kg of kit I am determined to use it. Yesterday I tucked my 'waterproof' overtrousers into my 'wet suit' cycling over-shoes, to stop them catching the chain. The problem was that all the trouser run-off went straight into my shoes, today I sealed the trousers with Duck Tape - it worked a treat and for the next 3 hours the heavy rain was not channelled into my shoes. Result.

Turning off the old A30 I headed for Crediton, you could tell it was Devon as the rivers down the side of the road were red.

I avoided the long and pointless climb to Crediton but decided to play with my useless back brake at the station - what a superb surprise to find a real old-fashioned buffet - time for coffee and a bacon sandwich.

When I reappeared the rain had stopped and it was sunny, I donned shorts CORD T-shirt and customised hi-vis vest and headed off. Tiverton came and went and I joined the Grand Western Canal and flew along, missing a turn-off so making a very tedious 1 mile in the wrong direction (see the accompanying plot), it was only the headwind (still a westerly) that alerted me to my mistake.

With my back brake still not really working I Googled 'bike shops Taunton' to find the Bicycle Chain in Chip Lane had the necessary part, only 16 miles away. Off I pedalled.

In it's heyday this striking canal reached Taunton but today it ends at a tunnel, my GPS (co-pilot) was a giveaway as there was a VERY large hill ahead. At least the sun was still out and newly drenched Devon countryside was stunning.

-

Sneeked into Someset on a road with no sign, must get a photo on the way out.

Phone battery ran out, hence the jump in the track, texted Logistical Support (wonderful Chris) to send spare MP3 player to Bristol, so I can load music on that and solely use phone for photos, txts, track uploads and internet - how did Shackelton manage?

At Nynehead some locals had been exeedingly busy digging a huge vertical sided cutting through the Old Red Sandstone.

Bicycle Chain had the parts and I used 2 more items from my 20kg of luggage (leatherman and alum keys).

The Bridewater and Taunton Canal did what it said on the tin and in the afternoon sunshine I chased my lengthening shadow whilst trains to Penzance raced past.

The Admiral's Rest (not sure which one) B&B was well equiped for cyclists, I washed off the Trek and gave it a liberal lubrication before I did likewise in a bath and the pub. Funny town Bridgewater but has all the essentials I need. I'm sure the two old guys on my right are Archers extras - background noise in the Bull.

So another day over, in total 21.4, 43.2, 63.4, 66.4 and a whopping 80.6 today, so that makes it 274 miles so far, not bad really.

21.50, off to bed..

Oh by the way I have over 40 regular followers, including Finland and South Africa - you know who you are...

Daily Stats
80.6 miles, 7:17 moving, max speed 27.7 mph, avg speed 11.9 mph, height climbed 5,715 ft

GPSed Track "Oakhampton to Bridgewater"

View my new track "Oakhampton to Bridgewater" started in United Kingdom, England, Okehampton.

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The wind has shifted - long climbs, heavy rain - a long day

No fire alarms last night, but I was woken up by someone in the dorm sneezing - somewhat concerned to find it was me who seems to have contracted pig-flu. It will take my mind off my knee. Slightly unimpressed at the effectiveness of the 'drying room' - nothing was dry so I packed the clothes in the bottom of my bulging pannier and was thankful I brought 2 sets with me.

After my Wadebridge pasty the Camel Trail climbed through an idylic wooded valley culminating in a silver fish and a VERY long climb onto Bodmin Moor.

Fortunately it didn't rain until I neared the top and found some ponies, but for the next 3 hours I put on and off my waterproofs numerous times.

Although the Camel Trail was splendid the wet gravel did nothing to up my average speed, by 11:30 I'd pedalled under 20 miles - too slow. At that rate I'd miss the ferry to Mull on day 15, need to do 60 miles by 3:30 - UM!

Eventually rolled into an exceedingly damp Launceston and officially exited Cornwall and entered Devon by crossing the Tamar at Poison Bridge.

The old A30 towards Oakhampton was a relief after those Cornish lanes, wide with relatively gentle gradients. The YHA at Oakhampton is the old railway engine shed and is way above town so I climbed onto the 'Granite Way' and pedaled the last 6 miles on the old track which included two wonderfull viaducts.

Pleased to report that I have my own room tonight, the drying room is hot and the coffee is free - just 2 guests in tonight.

Strangers have been very supportive, at least 3 have donated - the latested being Pasty Shop Mike - thanks.

Now 10pm so I'm off to bed.

66.4 miles, max speed 31.1 mph, height climbed 9,143 feet, avg speed 9.6mph, time moving 6:57.

GPSed Track "Treyarnon to Oakhampton"

View my new track "Treyarnon to Oakhampton" started in United Kingdom, England, Newquay.

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GPSed Track "Treyarnon to Oakhampton"

View my new track "Treyarnon to Oakhampton" started in United Kingdom, England, Newquay.

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The sun is out - Sunday morning

Of to Oakhampton via wonderful beaches and The Camel Trail, just had a pasty in Wadebride - must dash 53 more miles today.

The wind is definitely a Westerly - you can see by the way the rain falls!

It rained last night, it rained hard, it rained so hard it came through the roof of the Youth Hostel and onto the bunk above mine. It also got into the fire alarm - which went off - twice 12 and 3 a.m. NOT impressed! Anyway by 7 the worst of the storm had passed Land's End by 9 am and I set off resplendant in my waterproofs.

As I pedalled along the road to Zennor it was literally awash with stones, rocks, mud, tarmac - but too wet and cold for a photo. Came across the whole of Cornwall's emergency services (Fire, Police, Ambulance and Coastguard - 22 vehicles) where a car had been washed off the road with tragic results.

I had decided to have a ham roll in Hayle, but could not resist the 'World Famous Pasty Shop' and the pasty was the best I've tasted.

Cycling to Portreath I played 'catch-up' with a father and son going End-to-End, eventually caught them at Porthreath when I paused for another picie.

Up the old tramway to Scorrier and lunched at an old mine - very windy. The route to Treyarnon included what Cornwall is famous for - steep, long hills. The only plus point was that the wind was definitely assisting me. The last 2 miles into Treyarnon was into the wind - I'm pleased I'm doing LEJOG not JOGLE (think about it).

As the YH had a drying room I shared my shower with some wet sweaty cycling clothes, hope they dry by the morning!

After a very passable bacon and pasta concoction (all my own work) I ventured out for the obligitory beach photo and retired to a very pleasant YH bar to write this Blog. Hope the roof does not leak tonight.

Knee update - still on the Ibubrufen and it is holding up.

Vital stats 63.4 miles 5813 feet climbed max speed 29.5 mph (scary) and I pedalled for 5:06 hours.

GPSed Track "Lands End to Treyarnon"

View my new track "Lands End to Treyarnon" started in United Kingdom, England, Penzance.

Saturday

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